Contact Client Services via Whatsapp
The story
Rolex began producing the Submariner in 1953 and presented it at the Basel fair in 1954 as reference 6204: a waterproof Oyster case with a rotating bezel for timing dives. Over seventy years it has kept the same idea — a legible black dial, a graduated bezel and a case built for depth — while almost every component underneath has changed.
The changes come in clear steps: crown guards in the late 1950s, a date in 1969, sapphire crystals and quickset dates around 1979, a ceramic bezel in 2010 and a 41 mm case with a new generation of movements in 2020. Knowing those steps is the quickest way to place any Submariner in its era.
| Years | References | Calibre | What changed |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1953–1959 | 6204, 6205, 6200, 6536, 6538 | A.260, A.296, 1030 | First Submariners; 6538 'big crown' (Dr. No) |
| 1959–c.1990 | 5508, 5510, 5512, 5513 | 1530, 1520, 1560, 1570 | Crown guards arrive; 5513 runs c.1962–1990 |
| 1969–1979 | 1680 | 1575 | First Submariner Date (sources give 1967 or 1969) |
| 1979–1988 | 16800, 16803, 16808 | 3035 | Sapphire crystal, quickset date |
| c.1988–2010 | 16610, 14060, 14060M | 3135, 3000, 3130 | 16610 Date; 14060 no-date |
| 2010/2012–2020 | 116610LN/LV, 114060 | 3135, 3130 | Cerachrom ceramic bezel, 'Maxi case' |
| 2020–today | 126610LN/LV, 124060, 126613, 126618 | 3235, 3230 | 41 mm case, 70 h reserve |
Reading a Submariner reference
Take 126610LV. The 12 marks the current generation, 661 the Submariner Date, the final 0 Oystersteel, and LV a green bezel. Change the last digit to 3 (126613) and the case becomes Yellow Rolesor, steel and yellow gold; to 8 (126618) and it is solid 18 ct yellow gold.
The no-date Submariner has its own number: 124060 today, 114060 before it and 14060 before that. On older five-digit references the same logic applies — 16610 is the steel Submariner Date of the 1990s and 2000s, 16613 its two-tone sibling.
Current models and prices
Every Submariner Rolex currently lists for India, with the retail price shown on rolex.com/en-in on 8 October 2026, including taxes. Prices change from time to time; this table is updated when they do.
| Reference | Model | Case | Calibre | India price, 8 Oct 2026 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 124060 | Submariner (no date) | Oystersteel | 3230 | ₹9,81,000 |
| 126610LN | Submariner Date | Oystersteel | 3235 | ₹11,04,000 |
| 126610LV | Submariner Date | Oystersteel | 3235 | ₹11,57,000 |
| 126613LB | Submariner Date | Yellow Rolesor | 3235 | ₹18,91,000 |
| 126613LN | Submariner Date | Yellow Rolesor | 3235 | ₹18,91,000 |
| 126618LB | Submariner Date | Yellow gold | 3235 | ₹49,62,000 |
| 126618LN | Submariner Date | Yellow gold | 3235 | ₹49,62,000 |
Calibres 3230 and 3235
Both current Submariner movements come from the generation Rolex introduced from 2015: the 3230 in the no-date 124060 and the 3235, which adds the date, in every Submariner Date. Rolex lists both with a power reserve of about 70 hours, its Chronergy escapement, a blue Parachrom hairspring and Superlative Chronometer certification of −2/+2 seconds a day after casing.
The previous generation, 116610LN and 114060, used the 3135 and 3130 with roughly 48 hours of reserve. The extra day of autonomy is one of the most practical differences between the last two generations.
Materials
Steel Submariners are made in Oystersteel, Rolex’s name for its 904L-family steel. Two-tone versions are Yellow Rolesor, steel combined with 18 ct yellow gold, and the precious versions are solid 18 ct yellow or white gold.
Since 2010 the bezel insert has been Cerachrom ceramic, which resists scratches and fading; earlier inserts were aluminium and fade with age, which collectors often value on vintage pieces. Water resistance has been 300 metres since the late 1970s.
- A reference, case material and bezel that agree with each other (LV means a green bezel, 3 means two-tone)
- A movement that matches the generation: 3230/3235 in a 124060 or 1266xx
- Crisp bezel graduations and even, well-applied luminous markers
- Serial and reference engraved where that generation places them, with papers that match
- A date window on a 124060, or no date on a 1266xx
- A ceramic bezel on a reference that only ever had aluminium, or the reverse
- Papers whose reference or serial does not match the case
- A movement from the wrong generation, or no movement photos offered
Frequently asked questions
The Submariner (124060) shows only the time and uses calibre 3230; the Submariner Date (1266xx) adds a date with a Cyclops lens and uses calibre 3235.
A green bezel. 126610LV pairs it with a black dial in Oystersteel.
In 2020, with the 124060 and 126610 generation.
Rolex lists the steel 124060 at ₹9,81,000 and the steel Submariner Date 126610LN at ₹11,04,000, as of 8 October 2026.